I cant get 1 any time soon either. I saw this as it sounds like the crank cavity may now be flooded. I also have power coming from the stator. I have also tried to switch to the old ignition coil it tested find too, but still no spark So I checked the resistance ratings on the stator and pulse generator. The bike will run without them, but if the key switch is unplugged, none of the lights will work. Cut to the chase, disconnect the magneto harness, run a wire from the magneto harness on the engine side Black wire w white stripe directly to the primary side of the coil, disconnect the existing wire.
The shop had to order the fuse,which tells me that blowing that fuse is rare. Roll the bike into an unlit garage kick it over and have a look. Insert the black probe into the black wire terminal. This bike has to have a magneto or a solid state version of same. You may get away with running a stock flywheel but would be limited to the pickup tab width for timing. Wilkin's advice is good stuff, he help me work with my problems. I'd still be out there kicking the wall.
Replace the spark plug if a spark does not appear, then turn the engine over again. Just a different stator plate and modified flywheel. And understand that if you want to slam a builder that is a forum member, they have every right to slam back. Also, can someone point me to a good wiring schematic for the magneto 220's? Well, it wouldnt start again. Assuming the light worked okay on the points, the only thing left is a coil. We went and got it again and it ran when we drove it off the truck.
If you get an intermittent spark, you probably have a bad condenser. I knw it must be an electrical issue. But it was still a no go. The magneto coil and ignition coil can be tested easily with an analogue volt ohm meter. Brand new coil with brand new condenser, brand new plug, new plug cap. Place the black probe in the white and red terminal. In the North woods I stop on a two track for a blowdown.
Don't attempt to set the points gap by eye the old, look and see if they're open at the F mark test. Seems like it may start if it just wouldn't kick back? Reasoning would tell me that I jostled something loose or pulled a ground or something. I've got a good running 85 atc250r that I was thinking about switching the stator with just to se if that worked. I'm getting spark, but doesnt seem like great spark. Try cleaning the points with an extreemly fine grit of sandpaper, or some rough paper ie- buisness card.
One other picture for you all. Unplug the ignition coil's orange primary wire, located under the gas tank, and the spark plug cable from the spark plug. Neil first, thanks for the quick reply. One thing worth mentioning is that during the test process the rotor has been about 1mm off the shaft. These are the slow blow variety. I know these older Bayou's are magneto type ignitions and do not need battery power to operate but I wonder if there are safety switches involved I may not be aware of. I paid a good amount of money to get a running motor sent back to me.
Im hoping someone here may have an idea or can point me in the right direction of where to find one. Make sure you are getting a very bright Blue spark at the plug. The two questions I have: 1 when you say after testing the points the light should be blinking, how fast? Tilt sensor needs a reset. Now it did begin sparking normally just once and I plugged everything back in and it ran normally again until I turned the engine off. Hold the throttle wide open and attempt to start it without using the choke. I can't see a spark when the plug is laid on the head and the bike is kicked.
Anyone else have this happen? After all the time money and pain I still have a non running quadracer. Make sure you are getting a very bright Blue spark at the plug. Maybe that teeny wire that hooks to the points? If you have any questions for Matt, please email him. With the box standing upright, my connections look like this. If thats the case, you might want to check out the other systems on the stator and see if they are working or not as well. This was one of the first things I suggested he check, but it can be very confusing.
But, now after many of months I got my motor back from him. I dont see any wires that are not connected. Worse yet, the kickstarter has started kicking back like a horse. Adjust the gap, using a gapping tool, if the gap is not within 0. What is your preference for good ignition systems? I hope they can find the cause.