Today, it's become a major pastime. I still don't think this is right though with so many people having the same problem and I wish there was some way to contact whoever to make this a recall matter and have them fix this problem because I believe this soon will be a costly repair to the engine if not corrected. When it gets in the high mileage area you can choose to buy specially formulated oil for high mileage or use a little thicker. And use a good machine shop. Then about another 10 seconds and they would pump back up.
This takes longer to manufacture since every bore diameter is custom fit to every piston. Std Std Paint, Conventional Two Tone Requirements apply. Want to know if anybody has heard from chevy to attend to the situation. I am currently looking at these two chips. So after 11 years and the warranty long since come and gone the trucks engine still knocks and I was unable to get anything done about it.
Remember bad product bad name. Bitch and complain and yet we still haven't heard from chevy. Now trouble with the fuel system. The vehicle now has about 160,000 miles on it all highway miles, no load and the knock is louder and lasts longer each morning when I crank it up. I think that this is a manufacture defect and General Motors should fix or replace these motors.
There I said my bitch lol. A lot of Japanese car manufacturers use a custom fit philosophy. They said it was from lack of use. If you find one or more cylinders with low compression, suspect a burnt valve, or a possible blown head gasket, especially if you are loosing co … olant. Std Std Engine, Vortec 4. The rebuild got all new pistons, new bearings, bored over cylinders. I have owned Chevrolet vehicles for probably 35 years and this will be the last.
I bought the truck with 167,000miles on it so i thought nothing of the issue, until my 2004 5. Start with the plugs and wires which probably need replacing anyway. But they also ran flawlessly to 140K miles. So its a hit and miss problem. I have complained about this for several years and now I have 102. Ive have done every oil fluid change myself at 3,000 miles everytime.
See your dealer for details. I have a 2000 Chevy 1500 with a V8 5. I had to learn my lesson the hard and expensive way so by reading this please don't repeat my mistake. The first number is how the oil acts when cold. I took it to the dealership were I bought it from and explained what the truck was doing and the manager said that it was normal that those motors were built loose to keep them from locking up.
Gm uses a one piston Diameter size fits all the bore inside diameters philosophy. I have listened to every excuse from carbon build up to the way that the engines are made and assembled. I would stay away from buying a used motor, unless you can hear it run. . This is a serious problem, piston slap, and i think chevrolet should recall this because it seems like to me alot of people have the same problem. You may also have an injector that is malfunctioning. After engine warms up about 1-2 minutes, the knock will stop.
I have read some of the other complaints and I believe it is due to the oil pump or something along that line. It's rather embarrassing to drive it sometimes with it knocking like that. Thin oil will result in lower oil pressure and at the temp they run sooner or later oil pump will loose its draw resulting a spun bearing. I drove the vehicle for several months and then it would start making a knocking sound every moring I started it up. I have tried changing oil viscosity from 10w30 to 5w30 but knock has persisted. I have been doing Engines over 40 years. If compression is good then replace all plugs and plug wires one at a time.
There is very little room for error in the tolerance between the piston and the bore. I currently have an injen cold air intake with a throttle body spacer and booster. If you do please let me know. And also from buying a short block unless the piston diameters an bore diameters can be verified to meet the strict tolerance requirement. If I was going to go gay I could land a way hotter guy than him. I have always changed oil at 3000 miles with an extended mileage frame filter or better.
Once I get a little over 100k on my trucks I used 10w30. The good news is many of the manufacturers of these admired and trusted machines have realized they would like a say in the development and application…. My uncle had 2 6. I have also listed on this website, 2 other complaints about this same vehicle related to the transmission and fuel pump. After the rebuild, not a lick of knock. This is pretty embarrassing when your truck knocks only at 100,000 miles. Does anyone out there know if a synthetic oil will help this problem? So what do we do? I took his advice and he was right, however I noticed before I bought the truck that they where using 5w30 oil which is recommended by the truck manual, which I went to a 10w30 which also helped.