As long as the engine can achieve full oil pressure, and has adequate oil flow, the oil is doing what it needs to do. I pretty much knew that the start up viscosity would be about the same that's what the 5 is. I would usually just go with my gut on this sort of stuff as I'm usually pretty knowledgeable with things like this but I figured I would ask some of the people in here who may have more experience then me. Overall, probably the best bet is to use a 5W-30 oil most of the time, because it is a wide range protection oil, and swith to the 5W-20 in much colder climates. I redline often so I prefer the higher viscosity, and I do change the oil every 5000 miles. I just finished fixing it. There is much mis-information circulating about motor oil and what the viscosity specification truly means, and some of it has found its way into this thread.
Thin oil lubricates just fine so long as oil pressure is maintained. The weight you would be changing is the viscosity of the oil at normal operating temps. Actually there should be no debate at all. I read up on the difference and since my cars are run 99% of the time at highway speeds of 65-75 mph, I felt 5w-30 was fine to use. I was able to find it for awhile at Walmart, but I can't find it anymore. So basically the debate comes down too 20 weight vs 30 weight.
A 5W-20 will provide faster flow and superior lubrication as in less time to achieve oil pressure in cold weather. I was worried about it being too thin at those temps and yes I know the engine operates at alot hotter temp then the ambient air temp but that doesn't mean the oil doesn't get hotter than that sitting 6 inches above the searing hot blacktop. I want to change the oil before we go so I don't have to mess with it down there just one less thing to worry about. Overall, probably the best bet is to use a 5W-30 oil most of the time, because it is a wide range protection oil, and swith to the 5W-20 in much colder climates. Thinner the oil the more the oil can get to where it needs to go in the engine.
Using a thicker oil can reduce the valve opening. Consult your owner's manual, and use what it tells you to, based upon your climate. For most Hondas, you can wrap an old belt around the oil filter and unscrew it by hand. We'll fix you up with the proper oil at a great price. However, any oil's performance is optimized to a certain operating temperature range. You never know what could be dripping down from the engine, battery acid, engine coolant, brake fluid, etc. Todays engines are getting smaller high Hp and at the same time smaller parts are in the engine.
Most Hondas have the oil type printed on the oil cap - it will likely be 5W-20, 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30 or 10W-40. Hope this helps you too: Thanks to for the suggestion. Consult your owner's manual, and use what it tells you to, based upon your climate. Wouldn't that factor extend the life of an engine, as opposed to using a heavier viscosity oil? You have to remove the drivers side panel from the rear of the car. We're open late and on weekends for your convenience! Those people choose Firestone Complete Auto Care.
Also, the narrower weight gap 5W-20, as opposed to 5W-30 means that the oil is more stable in maintaining it's specified viscosity. The engineers have taken into account variability in air temperature when designing the car, so do not vary from the manufacturer's recommended weight. The reason for using a 5W-20 or 5W-30 in newer cars as opposed to a 10W-30 is because in new engines, the critical internal clearances are much tighter sometimes as tight as 2 to 5 ten-thousandths of an inch, or. Obviously, start by taking all the screws out and take the interior door latch all the way out. There is much mis-information circulating about motor oil and what the viscosity specification truly means, and some of it has found its way into this thread. Ok I understand what you guys are saying. The 5W is the only thing that would be affected by the ambient air temperature.
There are small notches in the plastic where you can take a screwdriver and pry the plastic away from the frame of the vehicle. With that being said, I'd not change the weight of the oil. . The companies always recommend, at the very least, you check with your certified Honda dealer for any of your service questions or dirctly refer to the manual. If most of your driving occurs under normal conditions, such as trips of several miles on paved roads within the speed limit, you should replace the engine oil every 10,000 miles or every 12 months, whichever happens first.
There is much mis-information circulating about motor oil and what the viscosity specification truly means, and some of it has found its way into this thread. Plus they make that recommendation assuming you'll be using dino oil, synthetics maintain their viscosity much better and so I thought I could get away with using a higher grade. Honda includes two maintenance schedules in every vehicle's owner's manual. Follow the instructions in your owner's manual for the proper weight oil to use. I want to change the oil before we go so I don't have to mess with it down there just one less thing to worry about. I changed my own oil and 5w-30 Mobil 1 was easy to find.
Which is exactly why I asked. I felt the better protection 30 weight offers is worth it. Honda recommends repeating this process 3 times to clean the engine. Book and oil cap states 5W-20 only but I have too much 5w30 in my garage so I just change it with that and I've been doing that ever since my first oil change. Double-check your manual on that issue, too.
Equipment manufacturers are starting to require higher quality oils in your vehicles in order to improve fuel economy, protect newer fuel efficient engines that run hotter, and to ultimately provide protection that will help increase the life of your engine. No additives are required, as they may actually damage the engine and transmission. See sources and related links below for replacement bulb information. Also note: some manufacturers are not recommending synthetic for brand new cars because it lubricates too well and does not allow for proper engine break-in. You should get it to a repair shop and have the brake fluid changed.