Van seems to be running a little better, but really sluggish. Are you saying it could be or couldn't be the map sensor? You may want to try and wiggle them while you have someone to turn the engine over. The more open the throttle, the colder heat range the best sparkplug will be. Timing chain should be good because the rotor turns on the distributor and fires the plugs. Autozone didn't say there was a difference but dodge claim that the sensor is different for auto vs man Hope that does the trick. Your symptoms indicate the same ie, sagging idle, hard starting, and having to press on the gas etc. P 1 Post a reply to this message: Username Registration: All visitors are allowed to post messages Name: Email: Notify me when I get a reply to my message: Yes No Icons: Subject: Message:.
I would take some time and make sure your van continues to start. Since I have spark, I know that both sensors are good. Anyway hope my problem solution will help the forum out a little. If you don't, it will not work. Short of all this check all the connections on the coil for security and corrosion. One thing to remember though is just because a particular code says a component or circuit is failing doesn't necessarily mean that component or that circuit is at fault. The fuel pump pumps fuel out of the gas tank and to your fuel filter.
Hey rip Ok brought the van down to checker auto got the thing scanned came up with coil c misfirng and map sensor bd. If the voltage disappears again when one of the sensors is plugged back in, it is shorted. If theres spark, spray a little gum cutter in the throttle body an crank it, if it fires you have a fuel problem. Just make sure you know all your codes for your vehicle. Once you have did this, turn the ignition of the vehicle.
If the voltage stays solidly at 0 or 5. The only other parts necessary are compression and timing, right? Put it all back in and now no spark. Step 4 Connect the wire harness and any other parts you removed, including the negative battery cable. Step 5 Use a socket set to remove the mounting bolts. In some vehicles, the camshaft sensor is built into the distributor. Piece of cake to change two bolts and a connector but I would check the connector for corrosion and inspect the wires to it first.
Try what I suggested earlier. I didn't mean to butt into your conversation. Always make sure you run a test on a part before changing it. If so, this means you are getting spark. The V10 does have a lower compression ratio 8. Then, disconnect the ignition wire from the ignition coil. You'll have to cycle the ignition switch off and back on to reset it.
A surge indicates a vacuum leak and that could be the cause of your code 61. Not all vehicles have a reset button, so once again check to see if you have this button. Will disconnecting the battery for a while do the job?? If it starts and dies, it could be your pump. This might be useful for supercharged engines. I'll go back to the sidelines now and wait to find out what the fix is.
You want to make sure that the engine is getting fuel. Can't rule anything out at this point but, it wouldn't be high on my list. I can't think of anything else that would matter. More then likely, if your vehicle won't start, your check engine light is on. Thanks for all the recommendations.
If it's spaced out too far, the pulses will be weak and can cause intermittent stalling. Now it won't start at all. If the vehicle catches whiles you do this, change the wire. As best I can measure, the 5224 sticks out 8 mm and the Champion 4071 sticks out 6mm. Is it like a cylinder isn't firing or more of a surge.
That rib sets the gap initially. Therefore, maximum timing may be reduced which helps reduce the chance of detonation and provides superior part throttle response. Make sure the rotor is spinning and make sure the distributor cap has all metal contacts. We all wish it was more black and white but, not the case. Step 4 Disengage the connector securing the wiring harness connector to the Dodge ignition coil.