All of our performance parts are those we would and do! You only have to drive the wheel bearing far enough for the wheel bearing nut to get started. The wheel bearing is now accessible. Once the bolt is loose, remove the caliper bracket first, and then fully remove the rotor bolt to remove the brake rotor. All of our performance parts are those we would and do! When wheel bearing begin to fail you normally will here a squeaking or grinding noise or sometimes feel a slight amount of vibration in the steering wheel. With over two decades of parts, service, and racing experience under our belt, we provide only quality performance and replacement parts. This side's brake pads and rotors were worn down a lot more than the other side. I used a chisel to make two cuts to form a tab which I then bent into the notch in the spindle.
We noticed something strange with the factory cross drilled rotors. Pry off the dust covers with a screwdriver and then get a 7mm allen wrench or allen socket on the bolts. This locking ring secures the wheel bearing to the axle shaft. Be sure to replace these asap to prevent possible damage to the hub or steering issues. The wheel bearing nut will push the bearing on the rest of the way. Let's get back to what we had set out to do.
The breaker bar I used is about 1 meter long. The first step is to get the car up in the air and take the wheel off. If you are lucky, the inner race of the bearing and the outer race will stay together and it will all come out as one assembly. With over two decades of parts, service, and racing experience under our belt, we provide only quality performance and replacement parts. Be sure to replace these asap to prevent possible damage to the hub or steering issues. Torque the wheel bearing nut to 290 N-m 214 ft-lb and then create that locking notch.
Chuck Norris, if you are performing this, a breaker bar will be unnecessary. If you let the caliper hang by the brake line, you can damage your brake line. Requires 4 wheel bearing hex bolts - 3112676203 per wheel bearing. There was lots of tire smoke and plenty of steering correction, and a soiled pair of underwear later, the car came to a stop in the middle of the busy road. We stuffed a socket or two in the center of the spindle to give the bearing puller something to push against. Tap in the new bearing, but only apply force to the inner race of the bearing the part that has text on it. Make sure bearing is seated right up against the 'rear collar' on the shaft, can use the same socket that was used to loosen the 'lock nut' to tap bearing in place.
This is the hub with the bearing and it bolts to the carrier new hardware is recommended, see below. The bearings on both sides came off cleanly this time, but sometimes the inner race will stay stuck on the spindle. The outer part of the bearing came off, while the inner race remained on the spindle. I placed an order for a wheel bearing kit, and when they came in, I went to work. Basically, you strip off all the brake components, pull off the wheel bearing, and then put new parts back in.
All of our performance parts are those we would and do! Next, we are going to loosen, but not remove the two screws that hold the brake rotor onto the hub. While twisting tightly with a pair of pliers, we worked the bearing puller and the jaws didn't slip off the race. Wipe down the surface of the brake rotor with brake cleaner or rubbing alcohol if you got any grease or oil on it. The outer diameter of the socket I bought was initially too big to fit inside the hub, so I had to use an angle grinder to convert the socket into a thin-walled socket. Mine was 214 lb ft.
This bearing can be used on the left or right side. By doing this yourself, you've saved quite a bit of money, but more importantly, you've learned a little about your car and you know that the job was done right. Be sure to replace these asap to prevent possible damage to the hub or steering issues. Place bearing over shaft and gently push all the way to the rear. Stick a screwdriver in a cooling vane and brace it against the brake caliper mounting bracket to keep the rotor from spinning. All of our performance parts are those we would and do! Apply a thin layer of high pressure grease to the spindle to aid in installation.
Now you can drive down the highway knowing that your wheels won't seize up. In this case, the bearing decided to be racist, and the inner and outer races have separated. Replace your wheel bearings when you hear groaning or rumbling sounds from the front. The race should then come off easily. The caliper is held on with two bolts. There are only two screws that hold the brake caliper on.
All of our performance parts are those we would and do! Another way to do this is to use mallet blows on an allen key to generate the initial loosening torque. We only offer parts we know you can trust to perform! Don't let the caliper hang on the brake pipe as this can damage the pipe, I secure with a cable tie around the shock assembly, so it's out of the way, as in pic. Now we remove the brake caliper mounting bracket. Keep in mind that there are a few uncommon tools that you will need. Knock back the indention in the wheel nut with a screwdriver and mallet. We have a friend that had a bad wheel bearing, but kept driving on it for a while.
We recommend replacing the mounting hardware shown it the pull downs below. The torque spec is 300 Newton-meters 221 foot-lbs. Tools needed: Jack and JackStands Slotted screwdriver Hammer 8mm Hex 10mm deep socket 16mm socket 17mm deep socket Bearing-race Installer Ratchet extension 36mm socket 46mm socket Torque wrench that can hit 250 ft. The nut is torqued to 290 N-m 214 ft-lb , so a long breaker bar is almost a necessity. Replace your wheel bearings when you hear groaning or rumbling sounds from the front.