It just comes off the blue hose and then you have to remove the plastic connector from the cylinder or buy a new one. December 8, 2013 Followup from the Pelican Staff: It sounds like something in the clutch itself is broken. October 6, 2013 Followup from the Pelican Staff: When bleeding a clutch hydraulic system, I suggest pressing the pedal down once, then opening bleeder. In the mean time, see if this tech article can you get you part way there: - Nick at Pelican Parts Shades Comments: Many thanks for your feedback, much appreciated. The early E46 M3 was fitted with the 3.
If you depress the clutch pedal with much more force, there is an audible pop in the area of the pedal and the pedal will go to the floor, allowing the 1st gear to be engaged. Tried again, no power to rear wheels despite the clutch allegedly having engaged at least partially hence noise. One of those items may have failed. After I finished, the clutch pedal has no resistance and figured air was in the line. I always do that when installing new stuff, just to be sure. These vehicles are touch to bleed.
Clutch disc, pressure plate and tid bits are new. Push fluid up from the slave to the brake fluid reservoir. This may require monitoring the level over a day or so. This offer includes a set of 4 hydraulic lines with each 190cm length. However, the click is gone, so what relevance it had with all the above, I have no clue. The clutch feels spongy and does not engage all the way thus the car will not start i attached a magnet to the car to activate the sensor so i know its the clutch issue. It was like the clutch wasnt dis-engaging from the gear.
Then inspect the clutch fork and pressure plate. I'd appreciate your input on this. The pedal should have a good feel to it, and the clutch should engage normally. The clutch was making no noises before this happened. Also, if I rev it up, and pop the clutch it slips and slips and slips but it does also move the car forward, just not with the tire-screetching you would expect from releasing the clutch at say 4k rpm. I didn't see any huge puddle under the car, only some small leaks from probably not filling it as accurately as I could have with the proper funnel. Guess I was being to easy on it.
As the clutch componenets wear, the pressure plate travel increases, decreasing pedal feel. However, there is still a spongy feeling when pressing the clutch and somewhat long pedal travel to engage the clutch. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, might not be necessary, but I always do while working on my car. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community. There was no grinding, no smell of burnt clutch and no unwelcome sounds—except while stopped if I hold the clutch in all the way it's a sort of hollow mechanical sound, if that makes sense. Thanks so much for the great service from start to finish, and always done with a smile and as professional as possible.
April 28, 2019 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds to me like the clutch pressure plate has failed. Today I replaced the slave cylinder, and bled the system with the motive power bleeder. There is another issue of acceleration hesitation, but I'm kind of working on it. Drew July 6, 2014 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I see you figured it out. Glad you got it sorted.
Could it be that he didn't properly bleed the system? The throw is so short it doesn't handle it well. If bleeding is does not fix the problem you most likely have a defective clutch. Also no matter what gear i shift to the clutch slips my rpms keep climbing and im getting a very slow increase in speed. You can start by using the slave cylinder that matches the clutch components on you vehicle - Nick at Pelican Parts Ibdrftn Comments: have a 1992 325i which the slave cylinder went out on me while I was sitting at a red light. April 8, 2017 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Black grime could be from a fluid leak that is now covered in clutch dust.
Put the car in neutral got it stopped off of the road and was able to manually get the pedal to come back but then it would not go all the way down and cannot get the car in gear. Your continued support directly affects the expansion and existence of this site and technical articles like this one. You could be hearing a part that is about to fail. Any info would help me out greatly! The first place I like to start is the clutch slave cylinder, as it is easy and inexpensive to replace. See my reply to your other comment.
Now my car doesn't get any gears while running? Tried lifting the pedal back up, it required some force, and after I got the pedal up I got grinding noise and the car died. January 29, 2014 Followup from the Pelican Staff: That is how leaks develop. Is there a way to bypass this? There was lots of air in the line. Remove master cylinder with supply hose 6. Two days ago I went out to start my car and no hydraulic pressure at all, clutch dropped to the floor.