Yeah i will have a look back, i guess the S3 is cable throttle again? This is going to be very short on the Mk2! Brake handle is off in this photo. Had the starter motor done too The gearbox brackets and end cover fitted. I disconnected the ashtray as mentioned above and nothing changed. Removed the bumper, grille and bonnet Removed the impact bar, radiator and air con rad Removed washer bottle, coolant bottle, battery and air box Unplugged and labelled everything i needed to, the engine is now only held in by the two chassis leg mounts and the driveshafts forgot to bring my spline bits And this is where i'm up to. So i got hold of some unit space off of a mate and put the Mk4 in there to start stripping it down. Also if you swap in a Mk4 pedal cluster you will need to run a hydralic clutch transmission and that causes you to run a 02J or 02A 02a tdi trannies have the longer gearing needed for the swap or buy a longer 5th gear for the 02J 6. The reason for this is I need to really get cracking with mk2 on the road and making the holes in the bulkhead for the mk4 blower unit plus chopping up the glovebox and under-tray for clearance would take too much time, I'll come back to this job later.
Glad you like my thinking! Not sure if he installed the dash himself as I gather he bought the car to finish. Yeah apart from cost, paint is a minor worry compared to the rest of the project! There are two types of resistance strips, but one seems to be much easier to adapt than the other. It would also provide a great foundation for a custom center console, radio mount, or anything else you can come up with. Here's a little addition to the wiring. I thought I might as well sort out the bay wiring while I was doing this as it all has to be routed behind the dash anyway. Like the Title states, I'm wondering what exactly i would need to complete the conversion. Any other ideas of what it could be? I drilled 2 more holes and slotted them to provide more adjustment, plus used nuts on the mk4 studs to space it out a bit.
Getting the shifter mechanism out of a corrado was a laugh. You can diagnose the fault using the. You don't know what you're missing. You can diagnose a glow plug fault using the. And she is out Nice fairly empty engine bay and how the engine will sit for now while i strip the rest of the car From this picture you will be able to see the clearance issues im going to have with the turbo and mk2 rear mount and my shiny new actuator looking bling Does anyone know what this does? Instead, they face-lifted the front bumper, fenders, grille, and hood to resemble Mk4 Golf styling but to fit a Mk3 chassis.
I guess I'll be there for the next year or so Thanks Sparrow. Everything was working fine before I took my radio cage out to install the 20th trim kit. It is an extremely popular choice amongst Renault owners worldwide because it covers such a wide range of modules within the vehicle and have received excellent feedback from buyers. I think you might be right. If it's a horn, then it's the 4th one I've found on the car. Thanks Ben I certainly hope so.
This item may be a floor model or shop return that has been used. It was replaced in 2004 by the in European markets. You can find online possible ways on how to burn off the carbon build up, or you can take this to a garage to have the system reset or possibly even replaced if it is not working as it should. Now we just have a loom with a connector from the head unit out of shot below to the 2 door speaker connectors and the other one to the rear speaker connector at the top of the pic which runs down the passengers side. The spline bolts won't be anywhere near as tight as the hub nut so you should be able to undo them without applying brakes. It is available in two trim levels: the basic Sportline model with the 1. I don't want to forget where each hole on the pump go so i made myself a quick diagram havent got to the rear yet so not sure which one goes which side And thats it for today, here's how the engine bay looks currently.
All of the mk2 tanks are the same. The airbox can now be lifted out in about 2 minutes or less. I understand what you mean about the mk2 mount without the turbo so i can see exactly where it should sit and i will have a look at where the mk4 mounts will sit on the chassis legs. The easy one has 6 more solder pads along the right side of it, the hard one doesn't have any extra solder pads, just the one on top. Then I moved onto the wiring work.
At least it's easily sorted if it craps it's pants and I have about 4 or 5 of them from various different swaps and research. Last night i took the engine crane down the unit and remembered my spline bits this time for the driveshafts. I have checked the fuses which all looked ok but might need to double check them all. Although the Golf City was dated, its attractive price enabled good sales. I thought I might as well try and sort some of it out.
Time to lift the engine. I've gone with the better looking and illuminated Bora ones. I think I'm just wasting my time with this guy. I got the one with the clip on trim. .
Probably a front mount intercooler, a mk3 fuel tank, an 02m gearbox mount and turbo hoses. I have no idea what you have and what you are trying to do. I'll get back at it and get some more of the wiring sorted later hopefully. I spent most of the weekend cleaning parts and piddling about with wiring in the engine bay. I can't seem to get a good picture of the resistance strip itself, but you need to desolder the wire running from the top, and resolder it to the bottom of the strip to fix the fuel gauge.
If your vehicle is not listed please compare the image of the bulbs to see if it will fit. I've still got a lot of part sourcing to do and I need to figure out how I'm going to do the hydraulic clutch. You have already made good progress and you've only just got started I like the colour of your mk2. It'll be in and out a good few times before it's all done. The main reason for dash chopping is the climate panel is a lot taller than the mk2 sliders so it needs to be 'sunk' into the dash a bit: I made another bracket up for the upper left fixing from a bit chopped out of one of the clock holder brackets, I used a self tapping screw tab nicked out of an aftermarket cl kit pushed into the dash material for the screw fixing if that makes sense I used another for the climatronic fixing on the outside so you can see what I mean I haven't made anything for the upper right hole mainly as it was really hot that day and I ran out of assed-ness, but it seems nicely solid with just the 3 fixings. I suffer from rusty nuts I'll give them a bash. Visit for infomation about how he colored the yellow areas.